Trois Pommes Patisserie

260 5th Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11215

Mon, 7am-6pm; Tue-Thu, 7am-7pm; Fri, 7am-9pm; Sat, 8am-9pm; Sun, 8am-7pm

Although the name suggests a certain Gallic je ne sais quoi, Trois Pommes has actually positioned itself squarely in the tradition of a solid American bakery specializing in such all American treats as turtle bars, whoopee pies and red velvet cupcakes. Yes, there's a nod to France, evidence by the palmiers, the macaroons, and the super-streamlined, even modernist bche de nol that owner Emily Isaac (formerly the pastry chef at the Union Square Cafe) will prepare to order.

But mostly, it's down-home, regionally inspired fare, like the eight varieties of pie-sour cherry and key lime are particular winners-the chocolate chip cookies, the "Hostess" Twinkies, offered in time-honored golden cake version or in a worth-the-calories chocolate. Not to be missed are the scones-light, buttery and impossibly flakey, they are without a doubt the borough's best.

The decor is unassuming: white honeycomb tile floor, comfy if slightly stained banquette along the big window. A couple of mirrors, an oversized clock and a few round, marble tables on which to place your cup of Valrhona hot chocolate or Stumptown coffee. Norman Rockwell would have felt right at home here and you will too. So bring your newspaper, your laptop, or your best bud and settle in for the duration. What's Paris got that you can't find right here in your own Brooklyn backyard?

-Yona Zeldis McDonough